The ornate, tourist-free holiday decor hidden inside Manhattan churches
You can visit all of these churches to peep at their elaborate holiday decor, no prayer required
Beauty, peace and quiet are nearly impossible to find during the holiday season, even in a place of worship. Lutheran churches are often only open at odd hours, famous churches like the Cathedral of St. John the Divine charge for admission, and even St. Patrick’s Cathedral in Midtown is a never-ending stream of chattering tourists, beleaguered priests, and increasingly angry security guards.
Nevertheless, the city boasts a wide assortment of Catholic churches open throughout the day, providing a respite and some gorgeous decorations to take in free of charge. Few faiths go as hard on Christmas as the Catholics, and their churches are usually already gorgeous works of art. Here are a few of the city’s prettiest churches, open to everyone from as early as seven in the morning to as late as seven at night.
Uptown
The church of St. Jean Baptiste at the corner of East 76th Street and Lexington Avenue is something straight out of a French storybook. Built in 1912, the Upper East Side church is one of Manhattan’s few churches with a dome.
Like most Catholic churches, St. Jean Baptiste has an Advent wreath celebrating the four weeks leading up to Christmas, as well as a Nativity scene, minus the Christ Child.
Along with St. Patrick’s Cathedral, St. Jean Baptiste is the only one of two Catholic churches in the city to have stained glass windows from the prestigious studios of Chartres. Chartres is famous for its producers of stained glass, and one of the most famous churches in the world, Chartres cathedral, has an ornate display of windows made by the locals. The windows even have their own Wikipedia page.
St. Jean Baptiste can be accessed by taking the 6 train to 76th Street and walking south, or by taking the M101 or M103 to Lexington and 77th Street.
Just a few blocks to the south, at 66th Street and Lexington, sits the church of St. Vincent Ferrer.
St. Vincent Ferrer is far more medieval, much like the Cloisters.
St. Vincent Ferrer boasts not just one, but two pipe organs.
Jess Joseph
The four candles on the Advent wreath mark the four weeks leading up to Christmas: three in purple, and one in rose.
Statues of long-dead saints bedeck the church’s halls.
The church has numerous side altars and side chapels, one of which contains its Nativity scene.
The church of St. Vincent Ferrer can be accessed by taking the 6 train to the 68th Street-Hunter College Station, or by taking the M4 or M3 bus to E-66th Street.
Midtown
In the shadow of the Chrysler Building sits The Church of St. Agnes, on Lexington Avenue and East 43rd Street. Though smaller than its Uptown peers, it nevertheless has its own beauty.
Several Christmas trees decorate the sanctuary, and wreaths with candles hang upon the columns.
The Nativity scene is smaller as well, but lit with gorgeous chiaroscuro light.
The rectory next door to the church is similarly beautiful, with its share of Christmas trees.
The Church of St. Agnes can be accessed by taking the 4, 5, 6, 7 or S trains to Grand Central Station, via Metro-North to Grand Central Terminal, or LIRR to Grand Central Madison. Alternatively, the M101, M102, or M103 can be taken to E. 45th Street.
Downtown
Taking its name from a shrine in Pompeii, Italy, Our Lady of Pompeii Church in Greenwich Village is the national church of Italians in New York.
The church has some of the most impressive murals in the city, decorating the dome above the sanctuary.
Aside from its sanctuary, the church has numerous side chapels.
St. Lucy is a key saint in Italian and Swedish cultures, whose feast day on Dec. 13 is a major holiday. Your eyes aren’t deceiving you—those are a pair of eyeballs on the plate St. Lucy is holding!
St. Lucy is famous for wearing candles in her hair to free up her hands to take food to Christians hiding from persecution; hence, she is affiliated with light in the darkness. After her good deeds were uncovered, local authorities burned out her eyes before executing her. She carries one of the parts of her martyrdom in commemoration.
The Nativity scene sits to the right of the altar steps.
The Church of Our Lady of Pompeii can be reached by taking the B, D, F or M train to W. 4th Street and Washington Square.
Don’t let the simple façade of Old St. Patrick’s Basilica at Mott and Prince Street fool you. Once the seat of the Archbishopric of New York, the Nolita church still has its aged charm inside.
During tours by candlelight, the nave is lit by electric candles, and the tabernacle glows atop the altar.
Although there were 12 (technically 14) apostles, only ten can be found on the altar. Though some may think this is for a religious reason, in reality the church ran out of money and only had the funds for 10.
Old St. Patrick’s Basilica can be accessed by taking the 6 train to Bleeker Street, the R or the W train to Prince Street, the B, D, F or M to Broadway and Lafayette Street, or the M103 to Bowery and Prince Street.
The holidays can be stressful, and although it is important to relax, it is difficult to find a respite among the hustle and bustle. Next time you pass by any of these churches, or any Catholic church, consider taking the time to stop by, sit down, and rest your feet — and mind — in the warmth. All are welcome in Catholic churches, regardless of religious or irreligious beliefs.
Remember, if visiting any place of worship, to remain quiet and respectful of other visitors and staff and clerics. Men are asked to remove their hats in Catholic churches. Donations are accepted to keep the lights and heat on. By following these simple guidelines, the city’s churches can remain a welcome place of quiet and peace for everyone to walk the city’s snow-covered streets.
More Christmas content from The Groove:
Virginia K. Smith
Tim Donnelly
Tim Donnelly
Comments ()